Surf's up!

Surfing is one of the most extreme and interesting sports. Surfing is not only sport but the way of life; it is a culture that has its fashion, terms, and way of life. But the base of this sport is surfing – riding the waves.
Surfing is easily taught and there are a lot of amateurs that are interested in this sport and go in for it for fun. But there are also a lot of professional surfing sportsmen that show their devotion and loyalty to this sport.
There are a lot of terms of surfers that have entered the common language as surfing became very popular.
Surfing appeared on the cost of Polynesia where there are a lot of huge waves. More than 500 years ago the kings of local tribes were riding the waves using wooden boards. The modern surfboards are several times smaller than the first surfboards.
But surfing became really popular only in 20s of the past century. In this period the first surfing school appeared as well as the industry of surfing. Nowadays there are a lot of shops where all necessary equipment, swimsuits, accessories, film about surfing may be bought.
This sport offers beauty, extreme, romantics and courage. Two hours are needed to catch his/her first wave.
But at the same time this sport is very dangerous.
The first risk that surfers face is drowning. Even professional surfers are under the risk to drown. The reasons are different. But huge waves by themselves are dangerous for people not mention when people try to ride them. Besides the leash that holds the ankle of the surfer and the board doesn't let a surfer to swim away in the case of a danger. That is why surfers always swim in groups for their safety.
All objects that touch a surfer's body while surfing may be also potential danger. Especially if an object, for example a rock gets into the head. Then a surfer becomes unconscious and may drown. There were even several deaths. Besides, 66% of all injuries are results of the contact of the surfer's body and some object.
Animals and plants of the ocean may be dangerous too. Sharks and riffs as well as huge rocks may cause serious injuries and sometimes even deaths.
And of course there are some problems connected with people. Local surfers may be very rude and sometimes even use violence to protect the zone of their surfing. And as a result tourists and international surfers suffer from their behaviour. The local surfers of Hawaii and Malibu may use violence.
Surfer's life becomes more popular day by day. Maybe it is the universal trend. The fact is that extreme sports are the most popular nowadays. Besides, surfing may propose romantics and girls just love surfers. But this sport is practiced both by men and women.